Salvatore Lima is living proof that the American dream exists, but it requires courage, sacrifice and dedication. Arriving in New York 32 years ago from his native San Giorgio a Cremano, Salvatore started from the bottom, facing a long apprenticeship in the restaurant business. He worked in every possible role: from dishwasher to waiter to chef and, finally, entrepreneur. Today he is one of the owners of Donna Margherita, a restaurant that proudly brings Italian culinary tradition to Manhattan. But success did not come easily: after years of toil, his restaurant opened its doors only to face, two weeks later, the pandemic. Salvatore, however, never gave up. His is a story of resilience, passion, and love of cooking, which led him to realize his lifelong dream.
– Questa intervista fa parte del quarto numero cartaceo de IlNewyorkese: ACQUISTALO QUI
Hi Salvatore, tell us how your adventure in New York began. Why did you decide to move here?
I came to America 32 years ago. From an early age I cultivated what everyone calls the ‘American dream,’ but I can tell you it was a dream made up of many sacrifices. Initially, together with my brothers, I worked in construction, but I felt it was not my place, I did not feel fulfilled. I wanted something more, and for me that something was America. I left my town, San Giorgio a Cremano, and came to New York with a family from my hometown. I started working in historic establishments like Caffè Napoli and then in a restaurant in Brooklyn, La Tarantella, where I learned a lot and began to build the foundation for my future here.
What was the impact once you arrived in New York?
Eh, I saw everything bigger… The first impact was that of a metropolis. And I knew it would be difficult, because in such a big metropolis you have to win your place, with sacrifice.
When did the idea of opening your restaurant come about?
The idea came about because of a special bond I built here in America. I met Vincenzo Auriuso and his family, people who have become fundamental to me. Enzo is not just a partner, he is like a brother to me. We always had a great connection, and we often said to each other, “One day we will open a restaurant together.” Enzo has always believed in me and my abilities. He would tell me, “If we open the restaurant, you have to be the chef because you really cook Neapolitan, the authentic Neapolitan.” And so, in the end, our dream became reality. It was a shared bet, made of mutual trust and a lot of love for cooking.
How did the search for funds go?
Opening a restaurant requires significant funds, and we knew it would not be easy. But we like challenges. With great sacrifice, we managed to put together just enough to get started, and when we finally opened, it was like realizing a dream. But two weeks later, the dream threatened to shatter: Covid came along, and we had to close. It was a devastating moment, but we did not give up. The government gave us a little help, but the real strength came from the neighborhood. The community was amazing: they supported us, made us feel less alone in a situation that could have crushed us. When we were able to reopen, we saw something magical. People were tasting our food and saying, ‘Wow, are you new? This is incredible!’ Their smiles, their enthusiasm … made us realize that we were doing something special. It is because of them that we survived and continued to pursue this dream. It is a story of resilience, but also of gratitude for those who believed in us.
What has been the biggest difficulty you have faced in your journey?
The biggest difficulty was not being an American citizen yet. Not being able to return to Italy freely was a huge burden. I knew that if I went, I would not be able to go back to America, and that made me miss important moments with my family. In a few years I lost two brothers, then my mom and dad. I was only able to return when I received my papers, but it was to say goodbye to my brother Raphael. I did New York-Naples and went straight to the cemetery to say goodbye for the last time. It was one of the hardest things I had to go through. America gives you so much, but it asks just as much of you. It pushes you to sacrifice, and in my case, the biggest one was leaving my family. I had a well-established career here, though. I left at 18 thanks to the family of Ms. Tina, owner of La Tarantella, who introduced me to true Neapolitan cuisine and brought me to America. I owed them everything for the opportunity they gave me. Then I met Enzo’s family, another beautiful chapter in my story. I was fortunate to be welcomed by extraordinary families who taught me so much and made me grow.
It is often said in New York that restaurants last a year at most. You have experienced the environment of many establishments: what do you think is the biggest mistake Italians make?
I learned one basic thing in life: you have to be humble. This business does not forgive arrogance or superficiality. There are many reasons why a restaurant may not last long: sometimes the food is not appreciated, sometimes the neighborhood chosen is not the right one for the kind of clientele you want to attract. Many Italians, perhaps, underestimate how important it is to really understand the American market. It is not enough to bring a good dish or a winning idea, you have to adapt, listen to the area and build a bond with customers. The quality of the food is only one part: the real key to success lies in creating an experience that people want to relive. And that requires passion, dedication and, above all, humility.
Yet, you didn’t get here as a chef….
No, not at all. As I told you, I started with a year at Caffè Napoli, then I was seven years at La Tarantella in Brooklyn, where I learned to cook Neapolitan. But there is one particular episode that I remember fondly: next to our restaurant was a French place run by a gentleman named Jean Jacques. Every morning I would go to him, without being paid, just to learn. I would stand in the kitchen with him, observing everything, ‘stealing the trade’ with my eyes. Then, finished there, I would go to work at La Tarantella. At La Tarantella we didn’t have a fixed menu: we cooked every day with what was there. That idea stuck with me, and it’s something I wanted to carry on in my own way in the restaurant here on the Upper East Side. Because, in the end, simplicity is the best thing. And when you can convey that authentic flavor, people feel it, and they always come back.
What would you recommend to those who have the same dream as you, and maybe are already here in New York?
Believe in yourself. Surround yourself with positive people and make a lot of sacrifices, because without sacrifice nothing is achieved.
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