From Rome to New York, via a winery that smells like home. Mattia Moliterni, entrepreneur and partner in the Roscioli world, recounts the journey that led him to open an authentic Italian restaurant in the Big Apple. Between start-ups, gastronomic selections and a dogged search for quality, Moliterni recounts one of the most challenging – and formative – experiences of his life.
Tell us about your journey: how did you come to work with Roscioli?
I have been with the Roscioli since 2017. They called me when they were opening the Rimessa in 2017, needed a logistical hand for the startup. I did my job and we got along well. The opening was easy, fast, successful. At the time of the renovation, there was already the idea of staying together, so they gave me shares and we became partners.
Almost a year later we decided to open the Roscioli Wine Club. There, too, I was in charge of the startup and logistics. In the beginning I did a little bit of everything, now there is a more structured team, but I still take care of it, although more marginally.
How did the connection with New York come about?
Through the Wine Club we started to take trips to America. It wasn’t meant just for the American market, but it became that way because for Europeans “Wine Club” can mean so many things. For an American it is a definite model. So as we traveled in the United States, we became passionate about New York.
In 2021 we did a week of events here in various places, four nights in particular at this venue where we are now. Here we also met Ari Larz, who is now our American partner, and part of her team with whom we started the restaurant.
Was it easy to find the final location?
No. After the 2021 event, we went back several times to look for locations. Ari initially proposed another place, but we eventually came to an agreement for this one. The winery reminded us of Rome: two rooms, narrow, uncomfortable, the old building — but it made us feel at home.
The format here is a merge between the Rimessa (tasting) and the Salumeria (a la carte). After eight o’clock everyone eats together at small tables. It is very Roscioli, for better or worse.
Have you lived the “American dream”?
If the American dream is to just work-but I don’t think it was thought of that way. I work a lot, more than in Rome, where I was already not relaxing anyway.
However, there is one part that I live like a dream: I have energies that I don’t know where they come from. Here I feel that industry is more alive, vibrant. Rome is more stable, slower. In New York you experience a healthy competition, it charges you. It is tiring, but stimulating. I feel in it now, but I know it can’t last like this forever.
What about on the culinary authenticity front? How have you adapted?
Actually, we don’t fit in too much. The clientele is mostly New Yorkers, not tourists. And they are curious people, though not easy. To them you can propose something authentic.
Our cuisine is Italian cuisine. We make few changes-I can’t use Italian eggs for carbonara, but I find very good local products. We don’t have American cheeses in Rome, but we do here, because we found good ones. The same for wine: if I find a good Australian, I put it on the menu.
Are there plans for expansion?
No, no line-up. We want to make this place as stable as possible, consistent in quality, strengthen the team. New York inspires you, it would be nice to have another format, but now we focus here. We want to convince those who came at the beginning, those who are used to less authentic, but curious cuisine.
What would you recommend to those who want to make the same leap?
You have to know that it is more difficult here, not easier. But if you have passion for this city or want to get real work experience, I recommend it. It’s educational, you learn how to really work. But you earn it every day. If you don’t settle well, you risk being poorer than in Italy.
The dish that brings everyone together?
It is not from the fifth quarter, although I am fond of it. It’s hard to find it here, like tripe we’ve been looking for it but haven’t found a serious product yet.
One dish that unites everyone is “pasta, butter, and Parmesan.” Simple, but it encapsulates our philosophy: use the best butter possible, serious Parmesan, and technique. It is comforting, rich, appealing to Italians and Americans. It is vegetarian, inclusive. And it has a story for us: it was born out of an unexpected request at the restaurant, and it stayed.
The article What it means to bring authentic Italian cuisine to Manhattan: Moliterni tells Roscioli comes from TheNewyorker.
