The decision to talk about Greece in this torrid New York month of July stems, no doubt, from a desire for white beaches, crystal clear seas and souvlaki for breakfast. There is also a hint of healthy envy toward those who are actually enjoying those beaches these days and the secret hope that writing about them may provide the illusion of a teleportation that cannot, at least for now, transform reality.
Here I am, then, in search of Greece in New York, aware that in the East River I will not find the Mediterranean, but curious to discover a new fragment of our World Tour in the city, among addresses, stories, curiosities and authentic flavors. And to embark on this journey, there is only one possible starting point: Astoria, the beating heart of Greek immigration that since the 1960s has earned the nickname “Little Greece” and has become a real landmark, in the heart of Queens, for the Hellenic community in New York.
The first waves of migration actually date back to the early 1900s, when young Greeks left their homeland in search of work and opportunity, often with the idea of returning, but ending up settling in the United States. Initially, many settled in Manhattan as laborers or small traders, but already with the later diaspora, Astoria was preferred, which offered a cheaper, European village-like alternative while remaining well connected to Manhattan. The big boom came after the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965, the U.S. law that lifted restrictions based on national origin and allowed many more non-Northern Europeans to immigrate to the United States. In the decade that immediately followed, nearly 150,000 Greeks arrived in New York City, attracted by the promise of jobs, existing family networks and the chance to build a new life for themselves while maintaining strong cultural ties to their origins. Many of these immigrants chose Astoria specifically, which became a true Hellenic village destined to become the largest community outside of Greece and Cyprus. By the 1970s it was estimated that Astoria was home to up to 70,000 residents of Hellenic descent, including many who spoke exclusively Greek at home, a sign of a population that managed to preserve language and traditions even thousands of miles from the Aegean.
Around this community, as is always the case, sprang up schools (such as Saint Demetrios Preparatory founded in 1956 and still a landmark for education in the neighborhood), Greek Orthodox churches, stores and associations such as and the Federation of Hellenic Societies. All this created an authentic microcosm, a kind of second homeland, where customs, traditions and language were lived. In recent decades, while a portion of the Greek community has chosen to move to quieter neighborhoods or the suburbs, new arrivals have continued to nurture ties to their roots, especially during the economic crisis in Greece in the 2010s. Despite the neighborhood’s evolution, between gentrification and merging with other communities, Astoria’s Greek soul has remained firmly alive. You can breathe it in the traditional taverns, the street festivals, the blue-and-white flags proudly flying, and the cafes along Ditmars Boulevard and Steinway Street, where people still speak Greek and play tavli like in an Athens square.
Virtually every excursion I make to Astoria has as its goal a lunch or dinner of traditional dishes, and in this the picturesque Taverna Kyclades, open every day of the week until 10 p.m., is a true institution. The pride of Ditmars Boulevard, Taverna Kyclades opened its doors in Astoria in 1996 and quickly became an icon of Greek cuisine in the city. A second location in Manhattan (East Village) opened in 2013, then closed for good in 2024, when the restaurant underwent renovations and subsequently changed its name. Astoria’s Taverna, however, remains true to the convivial ambiance of the Cyclades: the walls are decorated with stuffed fish, the tables are strictly blue and white, and the waiters-all of Greek descent-reflect in their kind service, pride and authenticity. There is nothing that makes me feel more on vacation than an al fresco lunch of octopus and grilled fish at this restaurant!
Authentic alternatives in the neighborhood are obviously not lacking! To Loukoumi is a cozy and informal tavern, perfect for sharing meze in a convivial atmosphere that truly feels like a village square. Stamatis, present since 1990, is a beloved address among locals for traditional dishes prepared as at home-from grilled octopus to steaming moussaka. Bahari Estiatorio, is celebrated for generous portions in a simple but always lively setting. Three alternatives that, like Taverna Kyclades, know how to make us feel in Greece even in New York, between a cold glass of assyrtiko and a plate of calamari.
With our bellies full, we then set out to better explore the neighborhood and its historical legacy.
A symbolic place of the Greek presence in Astoria is the small, manicured Athens Square, the small square that looks like a little corner of Athens nestled between the streets of Queens. Opened in 1990 and completed in 1998, Athens Square was designed precisely to celebrate the Hellenic cultural heritage and the Greek community’s contribution to the city. Here, amid Doric columns and benches that welcome chatter on a summer Saturday afternoon, soar statues of Socrates and Aristotle, a replica of the statue of Athena, and a small amphitheater where outdoor concerts, performances, and events enliven the neighborhood’s evenings in summer. The skyline of Manhattan skyscrapers peeps out just outside the park’s boundaries, but the feeling being here is that of being catapulted in time and space. As I take a few photos, including the ones that accompany this article, I am approached by a distinguished gentleman, intrigued by my own curiosity who, having discovered my intentions, does not beg to tell me the history of these streets. In his voice and in the reserve in talking about himself, I discern an almost detached pride in the motherland that I do not know whether to attribute to the awareness that nostalgia might hurt or to the pride of knowing that I now belong to another land and another life: these are two feelings that coexist in the heart of every immigrant (or expat as they may be) and that I have learned to respect for having known them well firsthand. So I do not insist on asking for personal aspects from my impromptu guide, whom I can nevertheless see light up in his face when I utter the few Greek words available in my meager vocabulary: thank you, you’re welcome, goodbye. Efharistò, parakalò, kalimera. Five years of classical high school and having, if nothing else, learned the basics of education! Objective achieved anyway: interlocutor struck and sunk.
We parted reluctantly, and leaving the park in the direction of 30th Avenue, I am about to
have another interesting meeting: that with the owner of Akropolis Meat Market. Founded in 1975 by John Gatzonis and his father Gus, who arrived from Athens in 1956, this butcher shop has been an institution in Astoria for almost fifty years. Gus believed that everyone should be able to buy high-quality meat at honest prices in a friendly, family-friendly environment, and to this day the butcher shop ensures his legacy among historic photographs and authentic memorabilia, including his old knife. At Akropolis, every cut is custom-prepared, and a visit quickly turns into a social moment: not only does John feel like telling his story, but longtime customers also happily stop by to say hello, while the famous leg of lamb and barbecue kid go fast on weekends. In front of a map of Greece hanging on the wall, we talk about seaside vacations-here it comes back to close the circle of my research-about the Acropolis and the Parthenon, about the etymologies of words, which I know how to recognize thanks to my classical studies, and about his satisfaction gained through many years of passion for his work. I promise to send John a copy of this article translated into English before saying goodbye and reaching a new stage.
The imposing Saint Demetrios Cathedral, the center of religious life for Astoria’s Greek Orthodox community, is immediately striking in its size and the large Greek flag that soars alongside the American star-spangled banner. Built in 1942 and expanded with an opulent neo-Byzantine structure in 1975, the church is most striking for its interior. Dazzling, gilded and ornate with towering columns, historiated stained-glass windows, huge chandeliers illuminating the carved iconostasis, in a space filled with frescoes and sacred mosaics narrating Orthodox spirituality. When I say that New York is a journey within a journey, I am referring precisely to the magic that places like these can convey and the unique opportunity for learning that this city offers.
At least two others, among Astoria’s many Greek Orthodox churches, are worth mentioning here and are worth a visit: the Cathedral of Saint Markella, dating from 1954, whose interior mixes Byzantine art with rich woodwork, votive lamps and an elaborate episcopal throne, and St. Irene Chrysovalantou Monastery, which houses an authentic relic: the hand of Saint Irene, an object of veneration and pilgrimage. Here, too, the interiors are decorated with sacred portraits in an almost mystical atmosphere of devotion and legends. To visit these churches is to take a plunge into the Greek soul of Astoria: every fresco, every chandelier, every icon tells a story of faith, migration and community, bathed in a riot of golden colors and solemn atmospheres.
These churches are not only places of worship, but real beating hearts of the community, especially during major religious holidays. Orthodox Easter is the most important holiday for the Greeks, and in Astoria it is celebrated with great devotion. Greek Orthodox churches hold solemn services, processions with lighted candles on Saturday night and large community lunches on Sunday with traditional dishes such as roast lamb, offal soup and typical red eggs. Another special time is Apokries, the Greek carnival that precedes Orthodox Lent, celebrated with masquerade parties, music and tables full of typical dishes in an atmosphere of contagious merriment. Finally, during the summer, many churches hold festivals open to all, where food, music and dancing become a perfect opportunity to feel part, if only for a day, of the large Hellenic family in the heart of New York City. All information about these and other initiatives, as well as Greek language classes, art workshops and cultural events, is available at the Greek Cultural Center, a valuable reference point for those who want to learn more about Hellenic culture and really feel part of the community.
To conclude this journey, I would leave readers with a date for next year: on March 25, Greek Independence Day, which commemorates the beginning of the revolution against the Ottoman Empire in 1821, Astoria is colored blue and white. It is the perfect day to join the local community amid flags flying everywhere, churches celebrating solemn masses, parades, cultural events and convivial gatherings. It is a celebration that combines spirituality and national pride, where traditional music, folk costumes and folk dances tell the story of a proud people, even far from the motherland. To participate in this celebration is to fully immerse oneself in the Greek soul of New York and to discover how strong the connection to its roots still is today.
With this stop among the flavors and stories of Astoria, we add a new stamp to our “Around the World in New York” passport. If you missed the previous installments, you can catch up with them to continue traveling through the thousand souls of this city. There are still plenty of new destinations waiting for us to discover together as well, one subway stop (and one bite) at a time! Thanks for making it this far and… see you next adventure!
The article Greece two stops from Manhattan: the Hellenic face of New York comes from TheNewyorker.
