Mario Ursumando has built his career in the restaurant industry by crossing borders and cuisines, but always with the same goal: to offer an authentic experience with attention to detail. After years as general manager of Ribalta, one of the city’s best-known Italian restaurants, he decided to strike out on his own and open Audace, an eatery that in a short time won over New York audiences and praise from Gambero Rosso. In this long talk, he tells us his story, the difficulties of opening a restaurant in New York, the compromises with the American palate (yes, even the chicken parmigiana), and the secret that makes not only his restaurant special, but also his way of working.
Mario, let’s start at the beginning: tell me a little bit about your story before you came to New York. You’re from Naples, right?
Yes, that’s right. In Naples I have always worked in the restaurant business, since my high school and college days. I started as a bartender in a rather well-known place in my neighborhood. From there my passion for this work was born, which then took me to England, to London, where I lived almost five years. I worked in several bars and restaurants, the last of which was the Sky Garden. I was part of the opening team of this rooftop in the Bank area-a really incredible place, a tropical garden in the sky.
Beautiful, I saw the pictures.
Yes, yes, very nice indeed. However, after a while, London had made me a little tired: the climate, the food… in short, I needed a change. I had a short stint in Spain, to get some sunshine back, but even there I couldn’t feel fulfilled professionally. So I returned to Naples and, talking to a friend of mine, the possibility of applying to work at Walt Disney World came up. That very day I sent in my resume and, almost immediately, I was called for an interview: they took me.
Lo Sky Garden di Londra | via Shutterstock
So you came to the United States not so much for an American dream, but for a concrete job opportunity.
Exactly. I worked in Orlando, Florida. A very American city, but interesting. The experience at Disney lasted about a year and a half. From there, as has often happened in my life, one thing led to another: after a short time, Ribalta offered me to become general manager at one of their locations in Atlanta. So, almost without passing through home, I left immediately for this new adventure. Then, in 2019, I was offered to move to New York as general manager in their main location.
And there you stayed for five years, right?
Yes, a wonderful experience. Ribalta is a very well-known restaurant and a reference point for the Italian community in New York. I met so many people, made so many connections and acquired so many skills. Of course, I also rolled up my sleeves-nothing was easy, but I learned a lot.
When did the idea of opening your restaurant come?
After about four years in New York. It was also a sensitive time on a personal level: my father passed away, and he left a small legacy. Together with my family we decided to invest it in me. I had been working in the restaurant business since I was eighteen years old; today I am thirty-four. In January 2024 I decided to stop and look for a location. But opening a restaurant from scratch in New York is very difficult: without guidance, without someone to accompany you, you run into a thousand difficulties, from the requirements to get a location and licenses, to knowing the industry-specific American laws.
Yet, the restaurant is called Audace…
That’s right, it’s no accident. My brother Francis, my wife Claudia and I believed in the project and walked around the city for days looking for the right place. At first we were focused on Tribeca, an affluent area that is much more frequented by residents than tourists. We almost signed a contract, but at the last minute the owner changed his mind: he did not want an Italian restaurant. It was a blow; we had believed in it so much.
And after that closed door?
I rolled up my sleeves. By February I had been out of work for a while and started working with Tarallucci e Vino as director of operations, managing four restaurants and three event spaces. It was a good experience, but I was clear in my mind: I wanted my own venue. And so, by a series of fortunate coincidences, we found what would become Audace. It was a space already seen at the beginning of the year, which was to be taken over by a Michelin-starred group. But the deal fell through, and the hotel owner decided to give it to us. A big space, on Park Avenue, with almost a hundred covers: perfect.
And today you have been honored by Gambero Rosso. How was it possible to achieve this in such a short time?
It is the result of relentless work and meticulous attention to every detail. From the ideology of an Italian fine dining menu, with refined and often very expensive ingredients, to the design of the restaurant, enhanced by the use of artificial intelligence. Every element, from the sound system to the lights and music, is fully controllable via the phone. The style we chose represents a perfect balance between modernity and retro touches, but the real strength of the project lies in its essence. Over the years in New York, I have built a network of contacts that has proved crucial to success. Every aspect was designed with extreme care, leaving nothing to chance.
Your target audience is mainly Americans, right?
That’s right. Our restaurant is located in New York, one of the most competitive cities in the world, and has to deal with a well-defined stereotype of Italy. We are not only targeting Italians on vacation, but also resident Italians and Americans in general. This required some compromises. For example, we added a “Make it Parm” option on the menu. We were constantly getting requests for chicken parm. It is a necessity: we are on Park Avenue, not in Times Square. You also have to respond to the taste of the people who live here.
But you still have a strong identity.
Yes, with a chef who has worked in restaurants with three Michelin stars, we had developed a very creative, at times provocative menu. One of the first courses was a spaghetti with tomato and ketchup – obviously revisited with quality ingredients. But then we realized that we needed more tradition: even Italians, when they eat out, look for familiar flavors. We simplified the menu, keeping quality and identity high.
What is the real secret of Audace?
Energy. The energy of the people who work there. The welcome, the attention to the customer, the care: it all starts from there. Even if you invest millions in a venue, if there is no soul, it doesn’t work. We are always in the room, always trying to create a little connection with the people who come to see us.
What about yours, however, of secret?
Passion and patience. Opening my first venue was an experience that required sacrifice, commitment and continuous personal growth. I am an extremely patient person, able to remain calm when necessary, and very detail-oriented. Above all, passion: without passion for what you do, nothing can really work. I firmly believe that “passion and love are the key to success.” And I am convinced that it applies in any field.
What advice would you give to someone who wants to open a restaurant in New York?
First, to work at least two years in the city to understand how it works. But above all: listen. Don’t presume to know everything. You have to look around, accept criticism, feedback, change your mind if you need to. New York changes quickly: what worked two years ago may no longer be needed today. You need flexibility and humility.
Last question: did you try the pasta with ketchup?
(laughs) Yes, I tasted it. It was a special dish, done well, with yellow date tomatoes and a special vinegar. I’ll tell you the truth, though: I’m a traditionalist. Now we have on the menu a spaghetti al pomodoro with corbarino from Amalfi. Those flavors take me back home, to Ischia, to Sorrento. Even in New York, I want an Italian to be able to feel back in Italy.
What about Italian-American cuisine, is there anything that surprised you in a positive way?
Look, Italian-American cuisine we brought it. Spaghetti with meatballs, for example, has Abruzzese roots. So I can’t say I don’t like it. Some dishes I would never order out, like rigatoni with vodka (laughs), but if made with quality Italian products they can also work.
The article Mario Ursumando tells Audace: “I wanted it to taste like home in New York, too” comes from TheNewyorker.
