The fall season is getting closer and closer, where the days will become considerably shorter and temperatures will drop, with the first cold weather on the way. So the season will change and the habits of all of us will also have to change, starting with clothing but also when it comes to food. Many traditional foods that have been put into oblivion for a few months but are ready to return to our tables will be back. Goodbye to fresh dishes, seasonal fruits and vegetables, and soon we will welcome back those foods, ingredients and dishes that will warm us up on the cold days that will soon come knocking on the doors of our homes.
Prominent among these ‘seasonal’ dishes are the famous tortellini in brodo, which the New York Times itself has recognized as comfort food par excellence. A boast for all of Italy and in particular for Emilia-Romagna, the home region of tortellini. But right from here there has been no shortage of controversy toward the NYT, which published on its cover a photo of what is instead a Tortellini Soup, which has nothing to do with Emilia-Romagna’s famous tortellini in broth.
The New York Times has honored tortellini in brodo by placing them in first place in this special ranking, of the most enjoyable dishes during the fall season. Despite the fact that the published image is not that of an inviting dish, from Italy they have appreciated a lot, specialemte by several politicians and users from the Emilia-Romagna region. In particular, former mayor of Modena Giancarlo Muzzarelli expressed his enthusiasm for the just recognition given to tortellini: “Today the New York Times listing the comfort dishes for the fall season put tortellini in first place. It is impossible to blame them.”
The tortellini were awarded, but the published recipe is not the traditional Italian one complete with image, aspects that have stirred up several controversies on the web and brings back into vogue the issue of Italian food often being used inappropriately for some especially in the United States.
The NYT, in fact, published not the classic Emilian recipe but the traditional American one, with tortellini, creamy broth and the addition of sausage, the classic Tortellini Soup that can also be revisited with the addition of cabbage, tomato, thyme and fennel. Yet another version, yet another version of the tortellini which, however, remains unchanged and strictly of Emilian origin but can be revisited to win over palates all over the world as well, much to the chagrin of those who have expressed their discontent with the way tortellini is often used outside the Boot.
The article The New York Times rewards tortellini in broth but no shortage of controversy comes from TheNewyorker.