Nocera is an all-Italian, indeed all-Sicilian, black grape variety. It originates in the surroundings of Messina and has such deep roots that it is lost in the mists of time. Its closest “cousins” are Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, with which it shares territory and perhaps even a bit of DNA. It once reigned supreme over many hectares of vineyards, but today it is a rarity, grown in small plots mainly in the northeastern part of Sicily, with some residual presence between Catania, Syracuse and Ragusa. Fun fact: it has managed to make a name for itself outside the island’s borders, reaching Calabria and even France, where they call it Suquet or Barbe du Sultan. Not bad for a Sicilian AOC!
Nocera is a vine with a strong character: it grows vigorously and adapts well to a variety of training systems, especially the older, quality-friendly ones such as the sapling or spurred cordon. Clusters are medium-sized, pyramid-shaped and not very compact, with ellipsoidal berries of a beautiful blue-black color, covered with a waxy patina that protects them. It ripens early, as early as early September, and faces both disease and climatic changes with grit. In short, a real tough one with a soft heart.
When you decide to give it the starring role, Nocera knows how to make itself stand out: the resulting wine is deep ruby with violet hues, and on the nose it gives a rich bouquet of flowers, red fruits, balsamic notes and that scent of Mediterranean maquis that smells like home. In the mouth it is warm, full, with well-present but gentle tannins and an acidity that makes it fresh, balanced and … perfect for aging in style. It is often used in blends, especially in the Faro DOC along with its cousins Nerelli, but in recent years some courageous producers, especially in the Milazzo area and in the Mamertino DOC, have decided to bet everything on it, vinifying it on its own with surprising results.
Because of its structure and intensity, Nocera wine pairs wonderfully with rich, flavorful dishes such as pasta with meat sauce, timbale, roasts, grilled meats, game and aged cheeses. Its freshness and persistence also make it perfect for accompanying spicy and savory dishes of Mediterranean cuisine.
Nocera is a hidden treasure that deserves to be rediscovered. A grape with personality, combining tradition, typicality and a touch of modernity with class.
The article Nocera, the Sicilian grape variety also being grown in France comes from TheNewyorker.
