New York is a huge city of lights, skyscrapers and hustle and bustle, but also of hidden corners and neighborhoods that escape mass tourism. Even those who have lived here for years can still discover secret places, and Hudson Heights is one of them. Section of Washington Heights, between the Hudson River and Fort Washington just north of 178th Street, is a haven of peace, history and breathtaking views, far from the chaos of Midtown but still incredibly connected to the great energy of Manhattan.
La breve storia di Uptown Manhattan
Once geographically separated from the rest of New York City, the northern end of Manhattan was a bucolic oasis for the city’s wealthy. Its hills, old-growth forests and spectacular views of the Hudson River made it a sought-after destination for lavish Gilded Age estates.
But in the 20th century the arrival of the subway changed everything, quickly connecting it to the rest of the city. The elegant Art Deco buildings attracted immigrants: first the Irish, then a mix of Hungarians and Poles during World War I. With the rise of Nazism, thousands of German Jews found refuge here, so much so that the neighborhood was nicknamed Frankfurt-on-the-Hudson. Greeks and Russians followed in the 1950s, and in the 1960s and 1970s the area, especially that east of Broadway, became the heart of the Dominican community in the United States. In the 1980s and 1990s, the crack crisis brought crime and decay. But the area west of Broadway has always been different from the rest of Washington Heights.
In 1989, Jewish historian Steven M. Lowenstein wrote:
The greatest social distance was in the area to the northwest, just south of Fort Tryon Park, which was and remains the most prestigious section…This difference was already evident in 1940, continued unchanged in 1970, and was still perceptible in 1980.
The name Hudson Heights began to spread in the 1990s to identify the area and distinguish it from its heavily German past and the rest of heavily blighted Washington Heights. Today it is one of the city’s safest and most sought-after areas, a corner that, with its rich history, spectacular views of the Hudson and almost European feel, is a real gem to explore. We will explore it with a route that from south to north touches on the highlights of this fascinating New York neighborhood from the 175 A train stop to the 190.
La Stazione degli autobus del George Washington Bridge: un pezzo di Italia nascosta
The George Washington Bridge bus station is a key transit point for New York City, with daily traffic of about 2,000 passengers and 1,000 buses, but almost no one knows that it was designed by famed Italian engineer Pier Luigi Nervi-known for such works as Milan’s Pirellone and Rome’s Flaminio Stadium. The structure, one of the few buildings he designed outside Italy, was inaugurated in 1963 to replace the bus loading areas on the sidewalks, is built with massive concrete beams, the design of which, seen from above, resembles the wings of a butterfly.
Il George Washington Bridge: il gigante d’acciaio
Opened in 1931 with a single carriageway, the George Washington Bridge saw the addition of a second level in 1962, becoming the world’s only suspension bridge with 14 lanes. With more than 105 million vehicles crossing it each year, it is the busiest bridge on the planet. Designed by Swiss engineer Othmar Ammann, the bridge was not initially intended to exhibit its steel structure, but over time it became an icon of modern engineering. Ammann left an indelible imprint on New York City, also designing the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge, the Bronx-Whitestone Bridge, and the Lincoln Tunnel. At night, the bridge lights up spectacularly, while on special occasions-including Martin Luther King Jr. Day and Independence Day-it hosts the world’s largest free-hanging American flag.
La Little Red Lighthouse: Una Storia da Favola
Beneath the bridge’s imposing structure lies a hidden gem: the Little Red Lighthouse, the only remaining lighthouse on the island of Manhattan. Originally built in 1880 in Sandy Hook, New Jersey, the lighthouse was relocated in 1921 to Jeffrey’s Hook, a dangerous navigation point on the Hudson. With the arrival of the bridge in 1931, its lights made the lighthouse redundant, leading to its decommissioning in 1947. When there was talk of dismantling it in 1951, the famous children’s book The Little Red Lighthouse and the Great Gray Bridge by Hildegarde Swift and Lynd Ward mobilized public opinion to save it. Today, the lighthouse is a beloved attraction, celebrated each year with a festival in September that includes readings from the book and guided tours. A small symbol of resilience and identity in the heart of the city that never sleeps.
Da Paterno Castle a Castle Village: Un Sogno Italiano a New York
Before the Castle Village housing development arose, the site was home to the lavish Paterno Castle, built between 1905 and 1916 at the behest of Charles Paterno. The castle, inspired by an Italian place that had struck him deeply as a boy, was a masterpiece of luxury and engineering.
The huge four-story residence included 35 rooms, an underground driveway connecting it to Riverside drive, Italianate gardens, an indoor swimming pool with water filtered from the Hudson, a mushroom cellar, a library, a ballroom overlooking the river, a Turkish bath, and an incredibly valuable organ programmed to play automatically at certain times, including early in the morning to wake the owner.
Although the building’s facade was medieval-inspired, the interior had an eclectic style: the living room was furnished in Louis XV style, the dining room in colonial style, and the library featured Asian elements. Half of the roof was dedicated to a roof garden with a large greenhouse and solarium. Outside, the property included Italianate gardens, greenhouses, colonnades, fountains, and pergolas.
In 1938, as the area became increasingly urbanized, Paterno demolished the castle to build Castle Village, recognizing the growing demand for luxury apartments surrounded by greenery. Designed by architect George F. Pelham Jr. the five-tower complex was among the first to employ reinforced concrete, and their design recalls medieval fortified towers.
Hudson View Gardens: una comunità giardino a Manhattan
In 1924, before the demolition of the castle, Paterno built another ambitious project: Hudson View Gardens, a Tudor-style complex created as an alternative to middle-class flight to the suburbs. Designed by architect George F. Pelham and landscape architect Robert B. Cridland, Hudson View Gardens was conceived as a “garden community,” with large green spaces and panoramic views of the Hudson and Bennett Park. Consisting of 15 buildings, it is now recognized as an important historical landmark and, as of 2016, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Bennett Park: da campo di battaglia a parco cittadino
This green corner of Upper Manhattan has a history related to the American War of Independence. During the conflict, General George Washington and his troops camped on a strategic hill called Fort Washington to monitor the advance of the British. After defeat in the battle on November 16, 1776, the British took control of the blockhouse.
In 1856, the first private house was built on the Fort Washington site, and later the property was sold to James Gordon Bennett Sr. who used it as a summer residence. Later, Bennett’s descendants donated the land to the city, which created the park in 1913, dedicated to honor the battlefield of the war. Today, the park features a replica of a Revolutionary War cannon.
A curiosity: Bennet Park is the highest natural point in Manhattan, at 265 feet (about 81 meters) above sea level, a point marked by a commemorative plaque above a shale hill.
Edifici in stile Art Deco: eleganza e semplicità
Some of the architects who designed the buildings along the Grand Concourse in the Bronx, known for countless elegant Art Deco buildings, also worked in this part of the city. Walking through the neighborhood one notices common features, elements typical of the style, including angular windows, domed fire escapes, exterior decorations made of alternating red, white and black brick, and entrances one level below the street. Among the most significant buildings, true Deco gems, are 570 Fort Washington Avenue and 720-730 Fort Washington Avenue.
Cabrini Shrine: le reliquie della patrona degli emigrati italiani
Francesca Xavier Cabrini (2), also known as Mother Cabrini, was born on July 15, 1850, in Sant’Angelo Lodigiano, Italy. Always dedicated to the care of orphans, she founded the Missionary Sisters of the Sacred Heart of Jesus in 1880 with the goal of supporting the needy, especially orphaned children. In 1889, Mother Cabrini moved to the United States, where she founded schools, hospitals and orphanages, tirelessly devoting herself to the welfare and care of Italian immigrants. Her work earned her canonization in 1946, making her the first American citizen to be proclaimed a saint. In 1950, she was proclaimed patroness of emigrants, recognizing her commitment to Italian immigrants in America. As recently as 2024, the film “Cabrini,” directed by Alejandro Gómez Monteverde, was produced and was a great success here in the United States, helping to renew interest in Mother Cabrini and her legacy, which continues to inspire those working to support those in need around the world. Few people know that Mother Cabrini’s relics are enshrined in the St. Cabrini Shrine church in Fort Washington.
Fort Tryon Park e il Museo dei Cloisters
John D. Rockefeller Jr. purchased the land, financed the construction of the park, acquired the art and artifacts for the Cloisters, and then donated everything to New Yorkers. Rockefeller commissioned Frederick Law Olmsted Jr. to design the park, so it should come as no surprise to those familiar with Central Park, designed by Olmsted Sr., to find a great deal of similarity here, with the big difference, however, being that this park is located on one of the highest points in Manhattan and offers breathtaking views of the Hudson River and the GW Bridge. Inside the park is the Heather Garden with an incredible variety of plants that provides a unique viewing experience in all seasons.
The Cloisters Museum, a branch of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, is the undisputed jewel of Fort Tryon Park. Donated by John D. Rockefeller Jr. the museum was designed to display the collection of medieval art that Rockefeller had acquired from art collector George Grey Barnard. The museum is a replica of a medieval monastery and incorporates parts of real Romanesque and Gothic cloisters from five medieval European monasteries. Using arches, remnants of columns, and fragments of ruins, Charles Collens, who designed Riverside Church, managed to combine all these elements into a unified structure that ranges from Romanesque to Late Gothic.
The museum houses more than 2,000 works of medieval European art and artifacts. One of the most notable works is the Unicorn tapestry series, a set of seven tapestries that Rockefeller purchased in 1922 for about $1 million.
La Billing Estate e le Arcades
C.K.G. Billings, the retired president of the People’s Gas Company and Coke Company of Chicago, began construction of his Manhattan estate in 1901. The incredible views of the Hudson River, the presence of still wild nature and his love of horse racing prompted him to move to northern Manhattan, where he could be close to the Harlem River Speedway, which once operated on what is now Harlem River Drive. The Billings estate, Tryon Hall, completed in 1907 was originally intended to be his summer residence and, aside from the grand 21-room Louis XIV-style mansion, included a bowling alley, a heated indoor pool, stables for sixty horses, and an observatory for panoramic views of the river that reached as far as the Statue of Liberty.
In 1913, construction was begun on the entrance road, which Billings had requested be a low slope so that his horses could walk on it safely. Realizing Billings’ vision required the advice of a military engineer and the employment of more than 100 workers who carved through the rock in a year, creating an S-shaped road with a slope of only 6 degrees. With the granite removed, the workers built the Roman-style retaining wall and arch-viaduct, the Arcades. In fact, these arches are the only remains of the Billings estate, along with the janitor’s house. In 1917, only 9 years after the completion of construction, Billings sold the property to John D. Rockefeller Jr.
Rockefeller planned to turn the property into a park for the city and also purchased the land across the Hudson River in New Jersey, now Palisades Park, to preserve the beautiful view. But Rockefeller’s plan did not immediately materialize. In fact, he faced much opposition when it became known of his plan to demolish the magnificent estate. Some New Yorkers proposed using the building as the mayor’s residence or a city museum, but Rockefeller refused to compromise and the project remained on standby for a long time. However, the mansion, along with priceless artwork and other objects inside, was destroyed in a fire in 1926.
The elegant entrance road to the C.K.G. Billings estate, located near the current location of the Cloisters, is still standing and clearly visible from the Henry Hudson Parkway and leads to a terrace that offers a view of the river from Fort Tryon Park. The estate janitor’s house is also still standing, now used by the New York City Department of Parks as a storage facility.
Hudson Heights: A train Uptown, fermata 175
There where the Hudson River meets the sky, and green parks mingle with history, lies a place that is not just a visual refuge but a journey into the past. Hudson Heights represents a secret New York, often unknown even to New Yorkers themselves, a hidden corner that tells stories and wonders far from the usual tourist routes. Among its spectacular vistas and quiet streets lies a part of the city that has preserved its old-world charm, with historic buildings, enchanting parks and quiet corners that tell centuries of history. But from Midtown you need only take the A subway in the direction of Uptown and within a few stops you literally find yourself in another world. New York, for those who know how to look, is a city to discover, beyond the lights of Times Square and the crowded streets of Manhattan, but only if you are ready to go beyond the hectic pace of the city and the usual tourist destinations.
The article The New York to Discover: Uptown in The Heights comes from TheNewyorker.
